Be aware of idiosyncrasies and variations for various Mac models that I list within each Method.Buy one or two cables and maybe an adapter as specified in Method 1 or Method 2.
Determine your Mac’s Model Identifier, which lets you figure out if you should follow Method 1 or Method 2. You’ll only need to read part of it. All you need to do to connect your Mac is this: The connected Mac’s Wi-Fi icon will also change to the display-within-a-fan.Would you like to stream a movie from Netflix to your computer and watch it on your TV? Would you like to show iPhoto pictures on your TV? If so, you’ll want to read about how to connect your Mac to your flat panel TV to send both audio and video to it.ĭon’t be intimidated by the length of this article. (This may work with some non-Mac computers and mobile devices, too.) The sharing Mac’s network appears under Device. From the other computer, click the Wi-Fi menu and click Other Networks. Click the icon, and you see the network listed under Device. The icon in the Wi-Fi menu changes to show a tiny display within a Wi-Fi fan shape. When warned about creating an unsecure network, click Create. Name the network and choose a high-numbered channel (36 or above), as that allows higher throughput, and click Create. In the Wi-Fi menu on the Mac on which want to create the network, select Create Network. (This is needed only in the last few releases of macOS.) Check “Show legacy networks and options” and click OK and then click Apply. On both Macs, go to System Preferences > Network, select your Wi-Fi adapter in the left-hand list and click Advanced. 
I measured below 100Mbps, even lower on average than with a Mac-created Wi-Fi hotspot. Your maximum throughput will be relatively low. If you have one or two older Macs with Thunderbolt 2, you can use a Thunderbolt 2 to Thunderbolt 2 cable or a Thunderbolt 3 or 4 USB-C cable with a Thunderbolt 2 adapter on one end. You don’t want a USB-C charge-only cable (typically unmarked ends) or a USB 3-only cable (typically a USB symbol and SuperSpeed+ or SS+, SS 10, or SS 20 label). If you already own a USB-C cable, check that it has a lightning bolt symbol on plugs at both ends it should also bear a 3 or 4, though Apple omits that, oddly enough. Buy it from a company that has a good track record, such as Anker, Belkin, CalDigit, and Other World Computing, to name four of many. It’s vitally important that you have a USB-C to USB-C cable designed for Thunderbolt 3 or 4. Both rates are far above gigabit ethernet. In my testing using a Thunderbolt 4 cable between two M1 Macs, I was able to get 4Gbps of sustained writes and 8Gbps of sustained reads using a speed-testing app, and 5Gbps in copying large files from one Mac to the other.
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